My Adventure: by Dave Hoffman
My name is Dave Hoffman and many of my friends and fellow adventurers sometimes think of me as a bit of an Energizer Bunny. I do not sit still well and I am generally up for all different kinds of adventures.
Skiing is one of my passions and now in retirement I am able to ski 75 days a year or more. About ten years ago, I began ski touring (aka backcountry skiing) in addition to lift serviced skiing and the occasional helicopter for cat skiing adventure.
The two organized and guided week-long trips I have done are the Haute Route and the Silvretta Hut Tour. These two trips had similarities and differences. Both of these ski tours are in the Alps, include lodging at a series of remote huts, and require you to carry everything you need with you except food and water which are available at the huts. The Haute Route is often referred to as getting from point A to point B with quite a bit of traversing and a different hut each night. The Silvretta Hut Tour included three different huts and allowed for more ascents and descents at each location.
Ski touring provides a very different kind of outdoor mountain experience. There is the obvious physical difference that you are providing all of the locomotion yourself and you spend ninety percent of your time on skis going uphill. And while similar to cross country skiing, ski touring I find much more interesting, particularly the views and vistas and remoteness. You can go all day without seeing any other people until you arrive at the next Alpine hut. And…. you get some fresh and deep powder on the descents!!!
On a hut to hut trip, your day typically starts pretty early. The huts are not five star accommodations but they are very cozy and collegial and the food is very good. Coffee and breakfast are available at communal tables. You will talk with your guides about the route for the day as well as chat with others skiers in the hut. Then you buy some food for lunch, get geared up, and get moving. Sometimes you leave before sunrise with a head lamp if the route for the day is long. The ski days can be long and are quite varied. Often the guides will also get you out of your skis and do some short hikes up to selected peaks – ‘bagging a peak’ as they say. Plenty of breaks for water, food, and to take in the truly amazing views. Upon arriving at the next hut, there are rituals for getting out of your gear, setting it up to dry, finding your room which is often shared with up to 25 people in bunks but sometimes is a private room. And there is nothing like a beer or cocktail after a long day of ski touring. The huts have booze available and some snacks. A little relaxation and then get ready for dinner. Some huts have showers available but I typically do not bother. And socializing with the other hut guests is so much fun – people from all over the world.
I feel like there were very few big surprises on either of my two hut to hut trips so far. As an outdoorsy person, I relish the views and vistas and the remoteness. The mountains are stunning. And the camaraderie is amazing. On the Haute Route I only knew one other person in our group. For Silvretta I organized the full group and three of us had our sons along with us which made for amazing father son bonding. The one really cool surprise I did have was at the end of the Haute Route – we arrived in Zermatt in a light rain and overcast skies. We stayed in the village of Zermatt in a hotel and when we went outside the next morning we instantly saw the Matterhorn all lit up by the morning sun – just an amazing sight. And there were really no significant low lights on either tour. One aspect I remember that was interesting and not particularly positive was the traverse along Lake Dix – about three miles of traverse and the lake was hundred of meters below us and all I could think about the whole time was if my ski fell off and tumbled down the hill that I had no idea how I would get it back and make it to the next hut.
I think what prompted our first ski tour was simply reading an article about the Haute Route and talking about it with my buddy Kevin. We agreed to try it and really enjoyed it. A true adventure.
I think ski touring opened up a whole new world within my world. A very unique combination of factors. I love the outdoors, physical activity, winter, snow, and new experiences. I love going to new places and meeting new people. Ski touring from hut to hut really combined so many things that I love.
Ski touring is not for everyone. Braving the elements and ever changing winter weather. Sleeping in bunk rooms with many others. Long uphill marches and traverses. Carrying a significant load in a backpack. Layering up and down your clothing.
But if you love the outdoors, adventure, fitness, camaraderie, good food, and amazing scenery then give it a try. You should be reasonably fit physically and at least a strong skier able to handle powder and off piste skiing.
Advice to Others:
- Make sure you have a sense of the good and the bad (per above) – this is not a luxury vacation yet you will have elements of luxury combined with great outdoor adventure.
- Practice back country skiing close to home – it’s good to get used to skinning up hills, putting on and taking off the skins, using crampons, and learning key techniques like kick turns – and also consider going with others that can show you the ropes and offer tips on your technique – plus you need to break in your boots if you are new to touring
- Get the right gear including clothing layers – touring equipment continues to get better and lighter every year just like traditional alpine skiing gear – boots are the most important part of your gear so spend time and money on those – and remember layers, layers, layers to manage body temperature regulation and to allow you to pack light.
